Bear in mind also that in the factory, there were folks specializing in various parts of the instrument, but you have to know about all of it. Attention is now turned to the "stickers", which were removed long ago and which have been kept in order. When you stop treadling, the reservoir should open VERY slowly. Each piece is 1/2-inch long by a width equal to that of the bearing, "plus a little": this is really not all that critical, and these parts can be quickly cut out using a razor-blade in a handle. These are sometimes erroneously called "pitmans". Working with the white keys only, go through and drop all the high keys until they *just* impinge on the guide. To do this with good permanent results, the end of the sticker must be sealed (it is endgrain, and glue will soak into it very quickly) before the first dot is applied. *If* there is enough wood to use as a guide, tape a scrap of cardboard to a razor-blade such that this "shim" will hold the blade the requisite distance away from the wood as you make the cut. Resist the impulse to oil them, as this invariably only works for a while. These are the toughest to do and make work right. Too much friction can generate enough heat to ignite it. Log in Steps 1 through 4 should be done before continuing with: 5. With the valves done, you can contemplate the job of cleaning the reeds, about which more in Section 9. This helps lubricate them, and slows reactions with components of the wood. This is usually easy to remove, to facilitate access to the reeds of the front organ. But there are pitfalls here, too, and materials to be obtained. With a sharp tool, each of these is bent up to point more-or-less straight up. If this is not the case with the one you are working on, return to this section at the appropriate time. The objective is to make the spaces *between* the key fronts as uniform as possible in appearance. nice, but removes the finger goo (and often, water stains and deposits of salt) that can make a keyboard look so "crummy". This material is somewhat greasy and should be removed. There is a tiny hinged valve at the treble or bass end that opens when the mute is closed. Clark J. Whitney and Votey bought out the failed company and in 1883 organized as the Whitney Organ Company. Murphy's oil soap on a damp rag is the best first-step, and is often all that's necessary to get this goop off. The "fuzzy" side always faces the cells. Hide glue can be warmed, too, which quickens its action. The reed organ was introduced to Japan and also became successful there, with Japanese reed organ production beginning in the 1880s. In removing whatever you find, look for shards of the original still glued underneath - this will tell you what color the original material was). out, keeping them in order by arranging them on a flat board or some such. If the reservoir has internal springs, some care is needed. This is the shallow box on which everything you have exposed sits. When all is well, pin the excess cloth out of the way and work the joint down with the stick as before. All of the above must be done twice, of course. These are part of the original fabric of the instrument, and should be preserved and re-used. This edge of the mute that has the small excess flap of leather is tricky to trim and get right. The Marines' Hymn - Reed Organ, used . Next, lay out the ribs on the cloth, using your pencil marks and the old parts as a guide. Remove the old material, which invariably was glued on with hot glue. If there's room for it, a wall-paper roller helps, too. The order of re-covering will be dictated by what you learned in your inspection at the beginning. Cleaning the wood of the keys is not just a "cosmetic" step: it serves to make the completed keyboard look. You have come a long way since then! The piece of metal is called a reed. The three categories are Flat-head, Round-head, and Variants. You want next to take out the "upper action" in its entirety. Welcome to the Reed Organ Society - preserving reed organs, pump organs, harmoniums and many other free reed … The instrument you have is likely to vary in some ways from what I describe here, but if you have the smarts, you can see that the basic operation of yours is the same as all of them. If the blade is held in pair of vice-grips, it's even easier (and safer). (Again, Mason & Hamlin in particular used this technique.) Articles and advertisements are invited at any time; to include material in a specific issue, publication deadlines are at the beginning of each calendar quarter: There is an index to these issues. Excellent pristine finish and in good playing condition. Yes, it is frustrating and slow, but it works, and the longer you work at it, the better and better the keyboard begins to look. Various formulations of beeswax were popular polishes when the organ was in regular use, and this has accumulated a lot of dirt. Before doing this, however, inspect the soundboard closely for cracks. Proceeding in this way, a whole set of reeds can be effectively cleaned in a surprisingly short while. The keyboard, considered as a unit, has many individual parts: here is a glossary: BALANCE PIN: The pin at the tail of the key. Painted sharps are the big problem: here, only a damp rag (possibly with a trace of oil-soap) will do. before taking out this "lower action". Metal-etch cleaners based on phosphoric acid are useful here, followed by polishing with steel wool. Reed Organ Society, Inc. - An International Organization. Old reed bed felt is removed. Once again, cabretta is excellent for mute leather. These details, too, are easy to forget. One attacks the keys individually next. Certified Appraiser/Valuer and Restorer of Reed Organs, Harmoniums and Celestas. Depending on just how close together the two exhausters are, you will need to have some wooden "spatulas" to help you work the inner joint down. With all the cleaning and preparation done, you will need to cut the requisite number of new bushings. Many old screws were "blued", a chemical surfacing process that has been abandoned in favor of zinc electroplate, both processes applied with the hope of reducing rust. Once you have the knack of hot glue, you will wonder how you ever got along without it. The wave form of the sound generated without the resonator attached is a periodic train (with the frequency of reed vibration) of decaying high frequency oscillation. Small amounts of glue are needed here - resist the temptation to overdo it. The same will likely happen the first time the reservoir is pulled shut when you eventually re-assemble the organ. "Brownskin", as used for pouches in pipe organs, works well, too, but use the "thick" weight. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". Finally, view the reed against a strong light to be sure there are no specks lurking anywhere in the small space between tongue and frame. Once the mutes are back in place, their springs are attached, bits of felt are placed to prevent the springs from rattling (copy the old ones), and all is adjusted, you are ready to clean up and reassemble the swell flap mechanisms. (See Note 3). The person or persons contemplating repairing or rebuilding their reed organ should have the following attributes: Working on a reed organ need not be a lonely job: a few compatible souls can get the job done faster, at least, and the companionship and pride in a job well done can then be shared. Using the wood strip (or an equivalent) as a guide, trim off excess cloth on the divider board only; leave the "tails" for last, and proceed to cover the second exhauster. "Why on earth did they build it this way?" So, it is moth droppings! Whatever glue they tried to use didn't "take", so tacks were relied upon, with predictably bad results.). Be proud to show your friends what a neat job you did, and how much it looks like the original. It is possible, if this joint is made with the exhauster open, to pull this joint up too tight, which makes the exhauster want to stay open: avoid this! The high-back (if present) usually has only a few screws holding it on: these may be driven from inside; remove these, and LABEL them! Avoid swapping the exhausters left for right - mark *everything* unobtrusively: letter punches, discrete pencil marks, whatever works for you. (Prop it up on chunks of wood if there are too many things protruding below). Such instruments include the harmonium and … The piece of metal is called a reed. On a reed organ keyboard, the key may carry bushings at the front pins. CRUD: The stuff that falls through the cracks in a keyboard and lands on the parts below. It may be a while before you re-assemble the organ, and it's easy to forget. BALANCE RAIL: The portion of the key frame which carries the balance pins. There tend to be slight variations from hinge to hinge, so getting them back in the same spot where originally installed helps prevent problems of alignment; the clearances are surprisingly critical! It is *too* easy to bring out a chunk of a reed cell along with a tight reed, which complicates repairs tremendously. A particular challenge in this regard is the coupler mechanism (assuming your organ has one). Cutting a piece to fit *exactly* is impossible. They do not work well (at all!) Buffing on a wire-wheel is advised, especially if they are rusty. These are not glued together, just tacked over one another. *Don't* use sheet-rock screws, or those blankety-blank-blank phillips-head things. There may be a couple of metal straps in front or back that have to be taken off as well. It was very successful, with attendees from as far away as Europe and Japan. (I once removed well over a hundred tacks, including thumb-tacks, from a 10" x 10" exhauster on a M&H "Baby". Any twist or irregularity must be sanded out, and the active surface re-sized. A *barely* damp rag will take off dirt or soot accumulated on the leather face, and similar accumulations of dirt on the sides of the felt can be blown off with the air-hose, or brushed away carefully; a soft-bristle tooth-brush works well. 3. Replace these with something as close as you can find. The organ may just need a good cleaning and a few adjustments. They will eventually work loosely. Builders. Some reed organs are fitted with "qualifying tubes" - chambers of various sorts into which one or more reeds are allowed to speak. (Of course, some reeds all but fall out by themselves: your mileage may vary). Nothing to it! View All View Extant. Also referred to as the American Reed Organ, parlor organ, and pump organ, the reed organ was the most popular instrument of its day, gracing both chapels and fashionable American parlors. Farrand & Votey Organ Company was a nineteenth-century manufacturer of pianos, reed and pipe organs, and player pianos located in Detroit, Michigan.It evolved from William R. Farrand and Edwin S. Votey, hence the name of Farrand & Votey.The company is the development of the old Detroit Reed Organ Company that was originally bought out in 1881. I call it "bedding felt" for want of a better term. "Good shape" means that the felt is entire, without moth-larvae infestation, and the leather facing is similarly intact and not rotten or hardened from being wet. Find something at the fabric store that comes as close to the original as possible. Work this joint down well, and apply any wood strips that may have been over the cloth. One way to be sure a joint is "done" is to feel it with a sensitive part of your hand: if it is "cold and clammy", it is NOT ready. Then set this assembly aside to dry. In this situation, the keys must be removed from the frame before the stickers are lifted out. be devoted *just* to keyboards, especially those needing more complicated repairs. For example, dnaanalysis of hairs found there may reveal that W. A. Mozart himself once tickled the ivories of your reed organ (or that Aunt Maude had a cat). Research on reed cleaning will reveal several formulae. Put the action flat, exhausters down, on a work table. The original text, as far as it went, was on the ROS website for some years, and this revised text replaces it. It is not unusual to find these have been oiled at some point, the result usually being a nasty build-up of oil and dirt. OHS publishes its journal four times a year. But when in doubt, size the joint: it cannot hurt at all, and may save a lot of grief. And there's always a thumper felt in front, usually placed between two rows of front pins. Interaction of reed and resonator in reed organ pipes without and with the resonator has been investigated. Cut strips of leather which are slightly too long and slightly too wide. A weight on the cover helps hold things. They are usually held by three carpet tacks at each end. Lower actions tend to be of three types, with various hybrids. That formative is important. The ribs may be single piece, with a fold in their middles, or they may be separate pieces hinged together with a piece of leather. If you are lucky, the foundation is NOT glued to the lower action: if you are UNlucky, it is, and you need to seek advice on how to get it apart. Or, they can just be stacked in order and treated in groups. When the glue has set and these valves are sliced apart, you will have the job half done. What is the abbreviation for Reed Organ Society? Fortunately, painted sharps aren't that common, and the paint is often not original - someone did a touch-up job along the way. Many felts available now are synthetic materials which do not have the resilience and other qualities of true wool felt. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. Jim Tyler wrote the following article that will help you through your restoration - be sure to read it first and then reference back to it throughout your first restoration. This will assure that the hinges go back in *exactly* the same place from which they were removed. of steel, and sometimes plated with zinc. Some or all of these will have coupler buttons and felt punchings: again, cleaning the sticker and replacing the punchings is all that's required. This is not always easy, especially if the organ is fitted with the usual bass and treble couplers. SHARPS: The "black" keys. Add Organ. Neither technique will work at all. Here youâll see that they generally fall into 13 different categories: Lap Organ Eles estão listados na esquerda abaixo. Fossicking amongst this accumulata may tell much about the organ's history. One finds this in reed organs very often, and usually the original screw has been replaced by one much longer - and even then the screw has pulled out. Now you're down to the "nitty-gritty": at this juncture, DON'T attempt anything more with the cavity-box or mutes, other than gentle vacuuming away of the dirt that's likely to be everywhere. Each wire, with its bearings, can now be lifted out. Drop the keys onto their frame in order, and secure with the catch rail (just a few screws for now). Most often, there will not be much wood there to use as a guide. This book At this level you will usually find the coupler action (if there is one) attached to whatever covers the goodies below. Thirteen Different Types of Pump Organs. This possibility should be minimized, as it will almost certainly be very difficult to find a replacement reed! Clean all this away. Another way is to take electronic pictures, if you have a digital camera; these can be printed out and used later as guidance. Columbia Organ Leathers has good supplies, but you have to buy whole skins. But fairly early on the industry standardized on the "bent wire" action, which was produced for any number of builders in one factory: an early example of "outsourcing". Now and then one finds nails, especially in casework, but in the actions, a bewildering array of screws of many sizes can be found. Due to the wedging action of the counter-sunk portion of a flat-head screw, splitting is the most common result of over-tightening flat-head screws, whereas crushing the wood under the head is the typical result of over-tightening a round-head screw. A flash-light shined into each cell is a good idea: you never know what manner of detritus lurks there. But, the reed organs of the old parlors had an impressive gallary standing up nearly to the ceiling. blow excess water from the reed using the air blast held some distance from the reed. COUPLER BUTTON: A wooden button attached beneath the key which transfers motion to the coupler wire. Once the action is free and out of the case, set it aside, once again being careful not to damage the parts underneath. Leveling comes next: you will need a good straight piece of wood that you can drop on the key cheeks (if present) or on temporary blocks at the end of the key bed. The universally accepted lube is bees-wax, which not only eases the insertion of a screw into its hole, but helps reduce rust and thus helps assure the easy removal of the screw in future. J Busilacchio Reed Organ. "I Surrender All" is a hymn that was written by Judson Wheeler Van DeVenter. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. A decent alternative is a small electric hotplate with a thermostat, a pan of water, a jar immersed in the water for the glue, and a simple meat thermometer. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. (Alternatively, you can work over a light-table, or just hold the work up against a bright window). The Conklin Reed Organ Museum proudly displays 99 restored and working antique reed organs in the former school's gymnasium. End-grain, even in hardwood, does not grip the threads of a screw the way cross-grain does: it is the multitudinous fibers of the wood intersecting the threads at a steep angle that permit the screw to work. An axiom to remember though, is, "If it was once produced, it can be dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled". Decent lighting is. You will need a good hard surface to work upon: a sheet of glass is good, as ammonia will not damage it. Gotta get the thing apart first, and see what's wrong. You may need to prop one movable board open to give easier access to the one you are working on. This surface should dry completely before making up a new joint. It goes without saying that the gasket is held in place by a *light* application of modified horse hooves (hot glue). Large dollops of verdigris resulting from droplets of mouse urine may require a touch with a *dry* pencil-eraser, but a very slight discoloration left behind will do no harm, and it is best to go as easily as you can, especially on the tongues themselves. You may be lucky again: the facings may be all the same length from bass to treble. Whatever you use, be sure joints between pieces of material are almost invisible: an amazing amount of wind can leak through a tiny imperfection in this gasket! PUNCHING: A disk (usually) of felt (usually) applied to a part (often to a button) to reduce noise when the part meets another. The old clap board white churches of America of 150 years ago have reed organs. Oval pins may be turned slightly to take up wear of the bushing. Very rusty screws can be soaked in phosphoric acid-based metal treating compounds, but those only dirty or slightly rusty can be polished on a wire-wheel and made to look as new. It is a practical guide for craftsmen with instructions for making new reed organs and chapters included on tuning and voicing. No electricity required for this piece, this is a 100% foot powered mechanical instrument, using air, wooden chambers and brass reeds to produce the sound. Stubborn stains on ivory can be sanded out with 600-grit paper and great care! If the latter, apply the leather strips using hot glue, with the two halves of the rib facing each other, not flat! Early instruments tend to have exhausters with ribs of wood or cardboard, all hinged together with leather strips and with leather gussets (the corner pieces). It is now time to turn our attention to the keyboard, one of the most important elements in a good reed organ repair. This is usually a "line" of glue about an eighth of an inch wide; the old glue will usually show well enough that you can follow it as a guide. Welcome to the Reed Organ Society. It can be done, but be sure to know the "do's and don'ts" of restoring. It cannot be stressed enough here that the reeds, being the heart and soul of a reed organ, must be handled with great care. Probably the most common cause of munged heads, however, is attempting to remove screws which have rusted in their holes. The soundboard was usually shellacked, and the cleaning treatment may leave it a bit dingy. pick up in person cash on pick only. In any event, taken them all. The pump organ is a type of free-reed organ that generates sound as air flows past a vibrating piece of thin metal in a frame. To learn more about reed organs and related instruments, and about the Reed Organ Society, the Reed Organ Society website contains a wealth of information along with links to other reed organ sites. The only trick here is to work the center portion of the cover into place, given that the adjacent exhauster is already covered. The reed organ is a rather young instrument. DON'T just put them in a tray and hope for the best: if that tray gets tipped, you have a major problem! OHS publishes its journal four times a year. As the pressure developed to make ROs cheaper, the style evolved that used a single piece of rubber cloth, often with ribs inside. Work this joint down well, and be sure the glue has begun to set up thoroughly before proceeding. By the time the second cover has its ribs in place, the glue will have begun to set on the first. The date, to be exact, was November 11, 1982. Avoid the fleeceback, heavier stuff, and the drill-cloth stuff as well. Quick Search Power Search Other Continents. That is a beautiful organ! Just get rid of the "bulk" water. Alcohol on a rag will remove the old shellac, fine sandpaper will prepare the surface, and new orange shellac (3-lb cut) will bring the surface back to like-new condition. International Reed Organ Society. Take a moment to review your notes, to be sure you have all the details of how they are covered well established. Still, reed organ keyboards have proven to be remarkably robust: in most cases, they can be made presentable and functional with very little effort. Once again, it is *imperative* that these be kept in order. Clean the face with care on the belt sander, or use the hot water technique, using just enough to do the job; allow the cleaned mutes to dry *thoroughly*. And you will replace the inside valves. Using your measurements and the old piece to guide you, make another pencil line the full length of the piece. First, place the piece of felt for notes 1-13 on a flat surface, and hold it in place with masking tape at the ends. So, drag the poor thing into the garage, assemble some tools, and fix up a workbench A disassembled reed organ takes up a good deal of space: have an area set aside where the components can be stored without being bothered by pets or children. With both *ends* done, and well set up, you can begin the trimming operation. Reed Organ Collection. This technique may take a while, but it will always eventually loosen a screw. Although many dealers aver that true antiques must be 100 years old or older, many consider the pump organ in the same category as an automobile and include them as antiques if built before the Great Depression. I find most organs had the reservoir cover laid on first. The traditional lubricant is tallow, nowadays difficult to find. Place a small weight to hold each rib in place, and mark the position of each with a dark pencil. In this situation, it's necessary to punch holes in the thumper felt - it is not practical to "poke" holes through it. Pipe Organ Database. 2. Often this gunk is all that's left of felt that has passed through the alimentary canal of many generations of moths. Built with concrete5 CMS. These are actually easier to work on than the later ones, where the pillow block is replaced by a metal one which is punched through the bed and crimped on the underside. When it cool again, work the leaves and blow the loosened dirt and rust out with the air hose. If working on a wood surface, be sure it is scrap you can throw away. This is a good introduction for those that may be considering rebuilding a reed organ. A pair of tweezers, or a sharply-hooked piece of wire may be necessary. If any more tacks are need than these, the glue is not working, probably because not enough has been applied). Instruments with a 6 octave keyboard and nearly identical stop list appear in the Reed Organ Society database: number 350 dated 1904, 675, 1624 dated 1906, 2381 dated 1896 with very similar fretwork, 3496 dated 1899 with similar fretwork below keys, This is a heavy item and will require proper safe loading into a suitable vehicle. Pilot hole sizes differ somewhat depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, but a pilot hole is important, and tables are available at any hardware store to guide the selection of pilot-hole sizes for the typically-found screw sizes. Note: Earlier actions (usually) often have the stickers coming up through a transverse guide that is part of the keybed itself. MARKINGS: Dates, signatures, job numbers, tuners' information and other items of interest that have been placed on various keys, usually in pencil. This has to be glued tightly in place, as the pressure of atmosphere will tend to push it away from the crack, but the technique works and the minor unsightliness remains inside where it won't often be seen. It is boring work, so take "breathers" often, and have some good music going in the background. Fold the cover and insert it between the two parts of one exhauster, center it carefully. Have ready also some flat boards which will cover the ribs, and some fairly heavy weights: bricks, old window weights, whatever, and have your glue hot and ready. There is no practical way to recover exhausters if the foundation remains attached! Hairline cracks, or ones which have a lot of curves, can be filled. It *may* be necessary to pay a bit of extra attention to the reed butts, where the mute leather has left a mark and possibly some corrosion. KEYSLIP: The portion of the casework which covers the action below the keyboard. In its earlier form, the bent-wire stack had the wires working in individual wooden pillow-blocks screwed to the bed. Soap has sometimes been recommended, but is the worst thing to use, as it will inevitably contain traces of lye which will attract water and promote rust. You want to get down to clean wood *everywhere*! The process begins by mixing enough ammonia and tap water (use distilled water if you are in a *very* hard-water area). Just be sure to keep your fingertips away from the belt. French estey reed organ used . Although many dealers aver that true antiques must be 100 years old or older, many consider the pump organ in the same category as an automobile and include them as antiques if built before the Great Depression. Some builders took considerable care with them, others "slapped them together". The three types of screw to be discussed are all devoted to the fastening of bits and pieces of wood, although in reed organ work, they are occasionally used to fasten metallic parts to wood. Working through the still-open ends of the reservoir, insert the springs *carefully*: you will have marked them earlier to know which one is which, and which point impinges which part of the reservoir. Once all the above is done, we will turn our attention to the coupler action (if present) and the keyboard. I usually apply new straps at this point, as it's easier to do with the lower action out of the case. In some instances, there is a single row of front-pins which protrude up through the thumper felt. A heat gun can also be used, with great care. Then let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best). A reed organ is old and not very clear in tone. Recall that I mentioned earlier the three types of exhauster coverings: I will treat here only the most common sort, which is a single piece of rubber cloth with inside ribs.